Three Words
Anyone who has lived abroad knows the questions: “So? How is it?” and also the struggle that comes with it. How is it? It. Life. Everything. And how do I put it in so few words that my friend who asked does not get bored? It is tough. How do you describe life especially when it is so different than you are used to in few words?
So the other day my lovely roommate asked me: “How would you describe life in Cameroon in three words?” She was supposed to answer this question for a colleague. He started a project where all their volunteering colleagues were supposed to say three words about the country they were living in.* I thought long and hard about this. We talked about this task for many hours and many days. Three words to describe life. Just three words.
So here they are:
Water Color Money
Water is the basis of life. It is necessary for any living soul. But it was here when I finally realized how important it actually was. And how I always took it for granted. It was one of my first experiences here: The rain. It hit the roof relentlessly. It navigated the city’s schedule. When it rained the roads were chaotic. There were fewer taxis, people got to work late or cancelled appointments. Water was necessary for the lush harvests. But also as much water as there was during rainy season it was missing during dry season. Today marks the 6th day without running water. Last week we had water once, before there was none for a week also. Those water stops make everyday life hard. You plan around the water. When can I do laundry? When can I wash my hair? Which friends can I ask to use their shower today? Even in the hospital there were water stops. To be dependent on such “little” things, things I always took for granted like running water, one that I could maybe even drink, or water at all, was a totally eye opening. Things we take for granted never should be.
Cameroon is full of colors. When I look outside there are thousands of colors of flowers, of geckos. When I walk the streets I see dresses and tissues in so many patterns I could not count. I love the craziness of the markets with their stacks of clothing and fabrics. I could get lost there for hours. While I do, I hear: “La Blanche”. Colors. My skin. I just can forget about this. No one seems to be able to. Everyday I get reminded about colors. I am white. You are black. Can’t you just let it go? Look at the dress I am wearing. It is as colorful as yours. I bought the fabric at Mokolo. I had it tailor made, as you did. Look at me? Aren’t we the same?
Money reins the world they say. And never did this feel truer than here. It is all about money. When I got money from the ATM it only gave me 10 000 CEFA bills. A taxi ride is 250 CEFA. Of course no taxi driver could ever change such a bill. Whenever I want to buy anything on the streets, a piece of fruit, tissues, water I have to check my pocket for coins. I always worry where I can change money in order to have small bills and coins. Sometimes even the visits at the supermarkets are disappointing as they run out of change. Everyone wants money. You have to bargain for everything. Even taxi rides. If no one wants to take you just offer 100 francs more and you will find a car immediately. If I ask for the direction someone accompanies me a little down my way. Which seems nice, but actually is done to make a little something extra. Money buys everything here. Even a passport or a license. And since bribery is such widely spread “disease” it is good to always have a little something extra with you in case you need to get out of trouble. And if this was not bad enough, money in combination with my skin color was a mix I could hardly endure without rising blood pressure. Whenever the police saw me in a car they would stop it. My Cameroonian friend was driving. They let him descend making him believe they wanted to see the trunk. Once he got off and I was out of ear shot they asked him to ask me for money. I only saw him raising his hands in rage.
Yes, everyone wants money. Money reins the world.
These are my three words. Water. Color. Money. My Cameroon words.
*for my German friends: read his blog here https://kulturweit-blog.de/derpaul/2017/11/14/kuesse-schnaps-ceviche-und-pragmatik/